European Sightseeing: Eurotrip 2023

There are five crucial questions a journalist must ask (and, ideally, answer) when researching and developing a story: Who, What, Where, When, and Why. These Five W's, along with a bonus "How" for further clarity, will preclude each blog post to provide proper insight into this weird, wild nomadic journey.

The Five W's + H:
Who: Mi amor (Christina) y yo (Me). Sophie sat this one out.
What: Top places to drink up 
Where: Europe
When: April 2023 - May 2023
Why: After years of planning, saving, and preparing we were finally able to embark on our dream vacation. Our trip was narrowed down, sort of, to 15 cities across eight countries: Amsterdam, Netherlands; Frankfurt, Germany; Lucerne, Switzerland; Lake Como, Venice, Rome, and Monterosso al Mare, Italy; Nice, Marseille, and Paris, France; Barcelona, Valencia, and Palma, Spain; London, England; and finally Brussels, Belgium. We also visited numerous towns and other cities over the course of our 6+ weeks adventuring, but we stayed at least one night in each of the cities listed above.
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How: As you can probably imagine, this marathon vacation required an absolutely insane amount of travel. In total, this trip consisted of 15 trains, four flights, and countless hours over the course of more than 4,000 miles (6500+ kilometers) traveled. Our usual, puny 20-30 hour drives were no match for what we faced on this European excursion.

Top Places to Drink Up: Europe

First and foremost, with six weeks under my belt and all of the memorable stops and memories made, it was extremely difficult to narrow this down to a concise, cohesive list.​ There had to be a set of minimum requirements to make the cut, and these were: 

1. Multiple visits were necessary in order to be considered so that I had a better understanding and foundation from which to write. 

2. Diversity was crucial in terms of location for the list so that individual cities weren't represented over and over. The goal was also to make sure there weren't a bunch located in the same country, but delicious ass Italy came along and quashed that notion. 

3. We had to have at least some of our own pictures to mark the experience, and I had to have jotted down some notes while we were there in order to properly document the establishment.

With those boundaries being set, here's the legitimate list: 

Lucerne, Switzerland: Des Alpes Hotel Restaurant (Furrengasse 3, 6004 Lucerne, Switzerland)

Quotable: "Dine on, and dine from, one of the most beautiful lakes in the world."​

Des Alpes Hotel Restaurant, which originated as a residential estate built way back in 1553, was converted into a hotel more than three hundred years later in 1874. It took roughly another quarter century before the current iteration of the Des Alpes Hotel opened its doors, and another 125 or so years before the hotel finally welcomed me through them.  ​

One of the biggest draws of coming to this hotel is being able to effortlessly head downstairs to enjoy the stunning views from the lakefront restaurant. Everything ingestible at the Des Alpes Hotel Restaurant is farm-to-table, with the seafood selection coming straight from picturesque Lake Lucerne. The water here is so clear you can see straight to the bottom, and possibly even get a glimpse of your potential grub.

Both the Balchen Fillet (Lake Lucerne white fish roasted on the skin, nestled on a bed of melty risotto and served with Hollandaise sauce pictured above) and the Knusperli Albeli (crispy Lake Lucerne white fish served with crunchy steak cut fries and a house-made spicy Remoulade sauce, and pictured above) are handcrafted must-haves. 

Non-seafood fans have a unique entree of their own for the choosing: the Eggplant Cordon Bleu (pictured above). A crispy, breaded, and pan fried eggplant shell encases a delicious medley of spicy local cheese and oyster mushrooms. This Des Alpes delicacy is topped with a fresh half lemon and pairs perfectly with crispy steak fries.  

There are also myriad local wines and beers on the menu. My personal favorite, the Luzerner Bier Lager, is brewed just a few miles away in what's called the Tribschen quarter. It's crafted unfiltered, unpasteurized and is not treated in any way—making it a completely natural, fresh Swiss beer.  

Venice, Italy: Bar al Vecio Calice (Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 1664, 30122 Venice, Italy)

Quotable: "Fresh seafood, A+ Aperol spritz, and excellent views of the Venice waterfront."

Nestled away from the packed walkways, canals, and bridges in Venice, Bar al Vecio Calice is the place to go for unique bar food and drinks—while avoiding the worst of the crowds. This venerable Venetian dive may not be much to look at from the outside, but the first class (and extremely reasonably priced) provisions, cocktails, and service are amore at first bite. 

When in Italy, it's imperative to enjoy an Aperol Spritz. I sampled my fair share over the course of nearly a month there, and Bar al Vecio Calice's take on the Italian classic is second to none. The fresh and smooth sips go down just right, and are a great way to set your palette up for this next Venetian staple. 

The most famous bar food in Venice is called cicchetti, and this small Italian island is pretty much the only place on Earth where you can imbibe it. While cicchetti is in reference to a nearly endless variety of bar snacks (basically), Bar al Vecio Calice's version of this famous finger food essentially consists of a toasted crostini topped with roasted vegetables, fruits and/or fish. 

The fresh zucchini blossom and the smoked tuna and mango (both pictured above) are my two favorite forms of cicchetti—each consisting of a perfect blend of salt, crunch and unique flavor that kept me coming back for more. The smoked tuna and mango comes stacked on a crisp crostini, while the zucchini blossom is delivered encased in doughy goodness. 

Another staple at Bar al Vecio Calice is their fresh baked vegetable pizza (pictured above). The house-made Italian dough is baked in a brick oven snuggled next to (probably) the aforementioned crostini cicchetti concoction, and is a must-try for any traveler visiting The Floating City. 

Rome, Italy: Amadeo (Via Principe Amedeo, 16, Rome, Italy) 

Quotable: "Must-try for creative, Roma-centric cuisine."

Walking the tightrope between honoring ancient Roman cuisine and striving to modernize that culinary heritage, Amadeo ends up excelling at both. This restaurant's motto is to never stop improving, taking pride in procuring local fresh fruits, vegetables, and meats—or at minimum sourcing these ingredients from trusted regional providers.    

An embodiment of that delicate mixture of past and present is Amadeo's take on the Hugo Spritz (half-pictured above). Garnished with a fresh apple slice, this mix of Prosecco, elderberry syrup and soda water combines to create a tongue-tingling yet refreshing sip.

When in Rome, you do... want to try the Roma-style artichoke (pictured above). This excellent way to start your meal comes bathed in white wine and olive oil, peppered with fresh herbs and spices, and then braised until tender... as the Romans do. The fried artichoke, similarly Roman-assembled but battered and fried to perfection, is another great choice. All due respect to Roma-style, but fried is the Page-family preference.

Another thing to do in Rome, particularly at Amadeo, is try the Cacio e Pepe (pictured above). This simple, yet delectable dish starts with a hearty helping of house made tonnarello pasta then is topped with Pecorino Romano cheese and a mix of selected coarse ground pepper. 

My favorite entree at Amadeo is the Rolled Sea Bass Fillet (pictured above). Tantalizingly topped with julienne vegetables and paired with roasted potatoes, this dish is one of the most creatively plated and deliciously delectable that I had the fortune of feasting on while in Europe. 

Barcelona, Spain: La Terraza Miro (La Terraza Miró, Carrer de Tarragona, Barcelona, Spain)

Quotable: "Unique tapas at a continuously evolving family-owned and operated restaurant."

Espana is known for its tapas, and La Terraza Miro is the site for suprema small plates in Barcelona. This restaurant opened just over a decade ago as a pequeño coffee and sandwich shop with grande aspirations. After La Terraza Miro crew spent time studying and gaining knowledge at a nearby culinary school, they made incremental improvements each year before the restaurant grew into what it is today. 

Even some loyal customers have played key roles in this rapid ascent from humble beginnings. From designs on each napkin (created by the artist simply known as Lola), to bathroom murals, and even lettering and pictures on the menu—guests have left their own creative mark on their favorite neighborhood restaurant.

Along with its relaxed, homey atmosphere this restaurant also features muy delicioso sips and bites. The house-made Cava Sangria (pictured above) is as smooth, tangy, and tasty as it is visually appealing.

As for the food, when dining at La Terraza Miro it's crucial to order entrees altogether and family style. The house-made creamy hummus accompanied by vegetable chips (pictured above) is a hefty, hearty way for you and yours to kick off your meal.

The happy "pollito" (so happy he married Mr. Avocado, according to Barcelona lore, and also pictured above) features boneless grilled chicken strips along with a heaping helping of sliced avocado. The robust grilled chicken and soft, fresh avocado combine to create the quintessential power couple. 

The "English" side of the menu caters more to Great Britain-inspired fare. One such item is the salmon with zucchini spaghetti noodles. If you've never had it, these "zoodles" provide great noodle-esque texture but are, you guessed it, made out of zucchini—and the filet of salmon plopped on top is grilled to perfection to boot.  

London, England: Namaaste Kitchen (64 Parkway Camden/Primrose Hill London NW17AH)

Quotable: "One of James Bond's favorite restaurants."

Cuisine isn't exactly what the United Kingdom is known for, but if you've been to London, you know Indian food does most of the heavy lifting to make British food more bearable. Namaaste Kitchen is no exception, with delicious food littered throughout the robust menu. Just ask James Bond. 

Speaking of 007, who doesn't love a well crafted martini. The Martini X at Namaaste is a savvy blend of sweet and sour with Ciroc vodka, vanilla extract, passion fruit juice, and Gomme syrup (French for gum: used in place of simple and gives a nice silky texture). I didn't ask if it was prepared shaken or stirred, but this crafty cocktail comes with a shot of Prosecco so I guess I didn't really give a damn.   

​On the cuisine side, my favorite meal at Namaaste is the Goan Sea Bass. Two lightly spiced (for Indian food at least) fillets come pan seared to perfection with tomato, onions, mustard seed, coconut (to cool things down a bit), and a savory curry leaf sauce. 
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Like many Indian restaurants, the vegetarian cuisine at Namaaste is some of the tastiest on the menu. The Vegetable Biryani brings the heat without sacrificing flavor. Seasonal vegetables arrive on a bountiful bed of basmati rice, cooked to perfection with Indian spice and Kewra essence. Tack on a side of Cucumber Raita (raita is basically a creamy vegetable dip) and you've got just enough cool to halt that heat.

Bonus: Monterosso al Mare, Italy: Enoteca Internazionale (Via Roma, 62, Monterosso al Mare, SP, Italy)

Quotable: "Fine local wines from all five famed Cinque Terre towns."

Some of the best wine in the world is stomped out in Italy, and Enoteca Internaziole brings those spectacularly smushed old grapes straight to your table. The oldest wine shop in Monterosso—one of the five beautiful towns located in Cinque Terre, Italy—offers tastings from each. 

Of course, it was our duty to try each wine from each town (both red and white) to be positively certain which boasted the best wine. As you can see from the final picture in the slideshow above, ​the Terrarosa blend from Vernassa came out on top but each wine was some of the best I've had the pleasure of tasting. 

As a nice bonus they supply you with an informational, picturesque drinking mat (pictured above) to let you know where each glass comes from with additional facts about Cinque Terre as a whole. The goal was to bring these back to the mainland but the weather had other plans as each mat was drenched on the trek back to the hotel. Eurotrip ruined :(